In Puerto Rico, one of the most emblematic fried treats of the fall season is barriguitas de vieja, or tortitas de calabaza.
These treats are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, similar in texture and preparation to buñuelos, and for many people they call up memories of grandmothers' kitchens, with the aromas of sugar and cinnamon dusted over these pumpkin desserts.
"We call them barriguita de vieja because they deflate a little when you fry them. And if it doesn't come out wrinkled, like a little grandmother's belly, then it's not a barriguita de vieja," explained Puerto Rican chef Marilyn López.
She added that the tortitas are the perfect companion to a coffee at 3:00 p.m. or served with a scoop of mantecado of your choice. They can also be eaten with syrup for pancakes or caramel to bring out their sweetness.
They can also serve as a side dish or a complement to a main course.
"At home we always said that barriguitas de vieja in Puerto Rican cooking are part of a meztura of something good that you want, a comfort food you want to share with family."
Chef Marilyn López
López, who is also the owner of Bibliotek restaurant in Jayuya, remembers her grandmother making tortitas that were less sweet and saltier, more like a small bread to accompany other dishes such as soups, beans (similarly to Puerto Rican arepas) or some kind of meat.
The chef explained that historically these fried treats served a practical purpose in households with many members: "They fill you up… If there are a lot of us at home, it fills your stomach and you don't have to eat as much meat."
How people prefer to eat them is a personal choice, but for López, sharing is what matters most.
Where can you find barriguitas de vieja this month?
PyP Restaurant, Caguas
Asador San Miguel, Naranjito
¡Ay, Qué Rico! Fonda Gourmet, San Juan
Buen Vecino Café, San Juan
El Rastro, Ponce
This content was translated with the assistance of Artificial Intelligence (AI).
