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"Mar Abierto": new food event embraces the fight for public beaches

Ángeles R. Rodríguez Negrón

Chef Pau Rocío's "Mar Abierto" dinner series, running four weeks at Manzana de Java, celebrates conscious fishing and local harvests in the context of activism against the privatization of beaches in Puerto Rico.

On an island like Puerto Rico, the connection to the sea and beaches is deeply personal, a bond woven into our experiences, communities and culture.

The chef Pau Rocío Ramírez Concepción, better known as Chef Pau Rocío, explores these themes in "Mar Abierto", a fine-dining dinner series that celebrates the fruits of the sea and local harvests.

This culinary residency, taking place at Manzana de Java in Santurce from June 10 to July 1, grows out of the intersection of coastal Creole cooking, a connection to local ingredients from the Island's shores, and resistance to the privatization of the island's beaches.

The title Mar Abierto comes from the premise of "reminding people that our sea should be open, should be accessible; it should not be fenced off."

For that reason, Ramírez Concepción describes it as a "gastronomic-political project, because it seeks to show the diversity of ingredients, of knowledge and of the communities that are there, that live and resist on the shores of Puerto Rico."

In addition to private events, Chef Pau Rocío has collaborated with food spaces such as Oriundo, Café Caleta and Galería on calle Cerra in Santurce.

"Each dinner starts from a different theme related to the sea, with menus designed around that resistance, around local ingredients, sustainable fishing and agroecological practices," she added.

To accomplish this, the chef partnered with local fishers and farmers, including fisher Anthony Elizo, better known as Ritmicano, as well as La Finca del Josco Bravo, Frutos del Guacabo, Finca Pueblo Nuevo and PRoduce.

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The well-known chef also aims to highlight local ingredients that often go unnoticed or are not commonly seen in traditional Creole cooking, such as edible seaweed and chanterelle mushrooms that grow in coastal forests beneath sea grape trees.

Seasonal shellfish such as conch, octopus from the east coast and spiny lobster are the stars of the Manzana de Java creations, where Mar Abierto will be held from June 10 to July 1. (@manzanadejava)

She will also incorporate various house-made preserved and fermented products, such as maví.

These ingredients combined in a single dish may be new to the palate, "but they have always been there, accessible to us," the chef emphasized; she will also offer plant-based meal options.

First dinner: "Las orillas son de todos"

Ramírez Concepción revealed that the first Tuesday of the residency (June 10) will be dedicated to "Las orillas son de todos", drawing inspiration from beachside kiosks and their elevated Creole flavors.

"We want people to come to Mar Abierto to listen and understand why it is important to defend our coasts, why it is important to defend our resources, what is happening politically on our island," she said.

The appetizer menu includes fruity touches such as a soursop vinaigrette and pickled starfruit.

Beyond revealing the first theme and that the menu will not include meat or poultry options, other details will be left open to curiosity, as they will use Puerto Rican ingredients available at the time.

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Creative pairings

To pair with the special dishes at the weekly event, Manzana de Java offers a creative cocktail menu that "is very well aligned with the concept we are going to be carrying and presenting."

If you would like to attend the Mar Abierto dinners, reservations open every Wednesday, one week in advance. Capacity is limited, between 35 and 45 people per dinner. Visit the OpenTable app to reserve your spot.

You can also follow the chef's Instagram profile (@chefpaurocio) for upcoming events.

This content was translated with the assistance of Artificial Intelligence (AI).