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WHAT TO KNOW

The land, the table and the business: women betting on Puerto Rico's food future

Mariana Betancourt

What's happening? In the kitchen and the dining room, on the front lines, in the fields and in menu decisions, women are building the path forward. They are defining the flavor and the future of Puerto Rico's food industry.

  • Some work with a knife in hand, like Marla Diaz, known as Lady Butcher, a butcher who broke the mold in a historically male trade. Some bring a business vision, like Rosa Torres of Tía, Loyda Rosa of Verde Mesa and Loisse Herger of O:live Boutique Hotel. Some work with their hands in the soil, like agriculture expert Crystal Díaz. And there are those who have spent decades cultivating our culinary identity, like Giovanna Huyke.

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Why does it matter? At a panel discussion for girls and young women at Academia María Reina, held as part of the Academia Puertorriqueña de Gastronomía (APUGA)'s "Sembrando Raíces" program, the leaders agreed that Puerto Rico's food sector offers broad opportunities for growth, and that the path to get there does not have to be defined from the start.

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The leaders agreed that Puerto Rico's food sector offers broad opportunities for growth.

In gastronomy. Giovanna Huyke highlighted the value of traditional Puerto Rican cooking. "We are fortunate to have such fertile land. And a Puerto Rican creativity and entrepreneurship, because our recipes were born from a fogón, from a mother, from a grandmother who wanted to provide food and sustenance from what grew out back. That is why I say, the land is what made our cuisine."

  • "Entrepreneurship in Puerto Rico's food industry has always existed. And it is something we have to encourage, because every dollar spent on and made from a Puerto Rican product comes back to Puerto Rico."

In agriculture. Crystal Díaz identified gaps in economic development within the agri-food industry.

  • "When we see food as a tool for the country's economic development, and when we look at it from the individual angle of where we want to get involved in food, the opportunities are endless. So within agriculture itself, yes, there is a future, there is a wide road full of opportunities for improvement."

In tourism. Loisse Herger pointed out Bad Bunny's residency as a significant economic opportunity for the Island and encouraged young women interested in the food industry to explore programs that combine gastronomy, mixology and hospitality.

  • "Puerto Rico is trending around the entire world thanks to Bad Bunny and thanks to everything that is happening, so there is an enormous future in hospitality. If it is something you are looking to do and study, it has the potential to make money."

Along the way

Loyda Rosa of Verde Mesa, Rosa Torres of Tía and Marla Díaz of Lady Butcher each found their direction in the industry as they went. They agreed that putting themselves out there, giving their best and trusting the process brought them to where they are today.

Loyda Rosa described how she came to the restaurant world after a career defending women's rights, and found in food a vehicle for service.

  • "You can live passionately even if you don't have a passion yet. Live each thing with intensity, and keep feeding that hunger for life."

  • "The best resource you have is your imagination, your creativity, what you carry inside. Parents can help, family can help, but the engine that will move you is the one you have within."

Rosa Torres shared that each experience brought her closer to her calling without her having planned it.

  • "I never had a clear idea of exactly where I wanted to go, but the whole road I traveled, without a doubt, led me to what Tía is today, which is a very close reflection of who I am."

  • "It happened along the way: trust the process, give 100%, pick yourself up five times and keep moving forward."

Marla Díaz encouraged young women to expose themselves to new experiences without fear of not having everything figured out.

  • "When I was there, it never crossed my mind that I was going to become a butcher. I think the key for me was saying yes to everything."

  • "Don't say no. Put yourselves out there, learn, enjoy it. Because when you're sitting where we are now, you'll say: 'I remember when I was 25 and I did this.'"

Zoom in. Sembrando Raíces is an educational program that seeks to connect students from kindergarten through college with Puerto Rico's food culture and food sustainability.

  • The program works in partnership with more than 60 professionals in the food industry, as well as organizations including Fundación Atención Atención, Fundación Operación Éxito and Fundación Cortés to reach public schools; at the university level it collaborates with institutions such as Universidad Ana G. Méndez, UPR Carolina and Escuela Hotelera de San Juan, offering mentorships and formative experiences alongside chefs, farmers and industry leaders.

More on food in Puerto Rico

Other advice the panelists left for the students.

  • Marla Díaz, Lady Butcher: "Education isn't everything. It's the desire to want to grow. Determination and consistency. Those will take you a thousand times further."

  • Rosa Torres de Tía: "Don't be afraid to make mistakes, because it will happen."

  • Loisse Herger de O:live Boutique Hotel: "Fail as much as you can, because it's the only way to get used to it and improve."

  • Loyda Rosa de Verde Mesa: "Go for it and do it. Step out of your comfort zone, and you'll surprise yourself, and those achievements are what will give you confidence."

  • Giovanna Huyke: "Don't look sideways. You are unique. There is no one else with the same story as yours."

  • Crystal Díaz de El Pretexto: "Do it with love and do it well."


On the cover, from left: Loyda Rosa, founder of Verde Mesa; Kimberly Domínguez, food journalist; chef Giovanna Huyke, culinary leader; Marla Díaz, founder of Lady Butcher; Rosa Torres, founder of Tía; Crystal Díaz, owner of El Pretexto and co-founder of PRoduce; Madelaine Vázquez, executive director of APUGA; and Loisse Herer, founder of O:live Boutique Hotels.